Sartoria Lab


Black Tie

Here we are in the middle of the awards season, so what a perfect time to study the stars, and have a think about how you could individualise your look next time you wear black tie. It may seem like there's not much scope, but on closer inspection perhaps there is - it may be far more subtle that the womenswear but it's there... a cravat in place of a bow tie here, a black shirt there, vintage glasses, a light grey tie, and a host of other idiosyncrasies. So when you next have the occasion to wear black tie, don't forget the details to make you stand out from the crowd, and remember to take into consideration the following when dressing for your figure:

:: If you have a bit of a paunch, add a pocket square to your breast pocket to bring the eye upwards and away from the stomach area.

:: If you have a short neck, forget cravats, as they will just fill in space that's not there and make you look like you have no neck. Instead try wearing a light coloured tie which will keep the eye running from the neckline straight down the body.

:: If you have narrow or sloping shoulders, wear a peak lapel which will act as an arrow pointing upwards to the shoulders, therefore widening them.

:: If your legs are short avoid turn-ups on your trousers, and wear slightly more pointed shoes to elongate them.

Left to right: Jim Parsons, Chris Colfer, Darren Criss, David Strathairn, Kevin McHale.
Left to right: Vintage Cufflinks, Browns silk bowtie, Toby Jones filmstrip cuff, Jil Sander tie, Moscot "Miltzen" glasses
Left to right: Mr Hare Shoes, Toby Jones filmstrip pendant, Ede and Ravenscroft pocket square, Aspinal of London silk scarf
Left to right: Alexandre Desplat, Ryan Gosling and Derek Cianfrance, Richard Perry, Johnny Depp, Jesse Eisenberg, Christian Bale