Sartoria Lab


Richard Anderson - what to look for in the fit of your suit

Sometimes whilst on the tube, I like to restyle some of the guys I see and imagine they were getting ready for their "Red Carpet debut" The one thing I've noticed time and time again, whilst doing this is the amount of ill fitting suits being worn. I've also seen some real shockers whilst browsing wedding websites to look at what grooms are wearing - presumably some of these are hired but still - on your wedding day.....a Red Carpet moment if ever there was one?!

In light of this, I decided to ask a Savile Row tailor to share some tips with me on how to get the perfect fit in a suit.

Having read Richard Anderson's brilliant book "BESPOKE: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed" I decided he would be the perfect person to ask. He kindly agreed to answer my questions and shares his tips below on finding the perfect fit to flatter your physique.

Richard Anderson - tailor

1. What is the ideal length for a classic suit jacket?

Richard: The general rule would be that the coat length would correspond to the thumb nail when standing.

2. What suit style would you advise to help disguise a large stomach?

Richard: Single breasted with one or two button front.

3. How long should the sleeves be?

Richard: Personal preference on this one, I like to show a fair amount of cuff, but again the general rule would be that the coat cuff would finish at the wrist bone with the shirt cuff extending by 1cm or so.

4. Should a man wear single or double vents if he has a large seat?

Richard: One vent shades it slightly.    

5. How can the pocket placement and angle help to give the illusion of a perfect physique?

Richard: Positioning the pockets higher, more into the natural waist will give the wearer extra height.

6. What shape are pleat front trousers flattering for? 

Richard: Medium to slightly fuller figure.         

7. If a guy has an athletic figure ie: broad shoulders and slim waist - what shape/detailing would you advise he looked for in a suit?

Richard: One that shows off and enhances his figure, in other words, not too full a cut.

8. What is the perfect trouser length?   

Richard: For the trouser heels to hit the seam of the shoe at the back when angled to a small break at the front.              

9. What should you check for to make sure the shoulders fit?

Richard: No breaking down the front scyes or ridging under the collar at the back.

10. Have you got any tips on trouser styles for a guy with large hips?

Richard: Classic straight leg. 

Of course, if you really want to get absolute perfection then you should have a bespoke suit made for you. This is where Richard Anderson Ltd can help. Opened in 2001, the founders have nearly 100 years of tailoring experience between them! Wow - now that really is impressive! Expect to have 3-4 fittings for your first suit, with refinements being made at every stage to ensure the final creation is the best it can possibly be. Bespoke prices start at £4,200 (inclusive of VAT).

If you don't have time (or indeed funds) to have a bespoke suit made just now, then have a look at their newly launched Ready to Wear range. Prices start at £899 for a suit, and check out the online shop for shirts, knitwear and accessories too.

Thanks so much to Richard for sharing his tips with us. Do go and pay him a visit in the shop, or at the very least, get yourself a copy of his fabulous book. Guaranteed inspiration on getting a perfectly fitted suit, so you can be "Red Carpet ready"!

Richard Anderson - Savile Row